Finally back to blog
Well, I kinda took a hiatus. I just didn't feel like blogging so I didn't. I have been spinning and knitting a ton though. Here's a pattern for some fingerless mitts that I've made a few pair of. I just wanted to do my own thing so I played around with a bunch of different patterns and made up my own basic boring formula. These mitts pictured are made from my very first wheel spun merino yarn that I dyed and spun last summer. It was just sitting there looking all poorly spun and even more poorly Navajo plied so I decided to just use it. Boy, am I glad I did! I wear these mitts every day!
Jennifer’s Fingerless Mitts
Pattern Formula
Materials: Handspun Yarn
Circular needle(s) in size to make a nice tight/slightly drapey fabric (I used
size 5 addis with a worsted weight yarn to make a pretty stiff fabric but
could’ve gone up a size or two for a more comfortable mitt.
Figure your gauge kinda/sorta (or not if you like to live dangerously. I just cast on what looks kinda right and start going figuring that if it doesn’t fit quite right I might as well frog and start over. That way if I’m right I didn’t waste time on making a gauge swatch that’s just gonna get frogged anyway.)
On circular needle:
I use Magic Loop method on a 32 inch needle.
CO multiple of four stitches – you’ll need about 40 to 48 (maybe 52 if you’re using fingering weight yarn or you have larger hands)
Join in the round.
Knit one row.
K2, P2 rib for 16 rows.
Knit 16 rows.
Work thumb gusset rows until there are 17 stitches between markers:
Row 1: k1, pM, m1R, k1, m1L, pM, knit to end of row.
Row 2: knit
Row 3: k1, pM, m1R, knit to marker, m1L, pM, knit to end of row
Row 4: knit
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 17 stitches between markers.
Work palm:
Row 1: k1, remove marker, place all stitches between markers on a holder, remove 2nd marker, CO 1 stitch, knit to end of row.
Rows 2 and following: knit all stitches for as many rows as look good to you or as far up your palm as the warmth you need.
Options:
You could knit all these rows for a loosey goosey glove.
OR, knit a few rows and then do a k2, p2 rib for the remaining rows for a snugger fit over the knuckles and fingers.
I tend to be cold all the time so I knit mine all the way up to the first knuckles of my fingers and they are a little on the tight side that way making it hard to wear them when I type, but they’re fine for being out and about or driving.
Cast off quite loosely (unless you like your hands to have that claustrophobic feeling.
Thumb:
Pick up those 17 stitches you put on the holder. Pick up and knit a couple extra stitches in the side of your palm piece. Keep knitting (or do k1, p1 rib) for a bunch of rows until the thumb is as long as you want and then cast off loosely.
Notes on thumb:
1. Those 17 stitches between the markers, that’s just a guideline. You might need 15 or 19 or even 21 depending on the size of your yarn and needle. If you’re using Magic Loop it’s easy to slip those stitches down on the cable and try on your mitt to test the size of both the palm and the thumb.
2. When you do the second mitt, you want to put the thumb on the opposite side so just do your markers and make ones one stitch before the end of row 1,3,5 etc instead of at the beginning.
Pattern Formula
Materials: Handspun Yarn
Circular needle(s) in size to make a nice tight/slightly drapey fabric (I used
size 5 addis with a worsted weight yarn to make a pretty stiff fabric but
could’ve gone up a size or two for a more comfortable mitt.
Figure your gauge kinda/sorta (or not if you like to live dangerously. I just cast on what looks kinda right and start going figuring that if it doesn’t fit quite right I might as well frog and start over. That way if I’m right I didn’t waste time on making a gauge swatch that’s just gonna get frogged anyway.)
On circular needle:
I use Magic Loop method on a 32 inch needle.
CO multiple of four stitches – you’ll need about 40 to 48 (maybe 52 if you’re using fingering weight yarn or you have larger hands)
Join in the round.
Knit one row.
K2, P2 rib for 16 rows.
Knit 16 rows.
Work thumb gusset rows until there are 17 stitches between markers:
Row 1: k1, pM, m1R, k1, m1L, pM, knit to end of row.
Row 2: knit
Row 3: k1, pM, m1R, knit to marker, m1L, pM, knit to end of row
Row 4: knit
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 17 stitches between markers.
Work palm:
Row 1: k1, remove marker, place all stitches between markers on a holder, remove 2nd marker, CO 1 stitch, knit to end of row.
Rows 2 and following: knit all stitches for as many rows as look good to you or as far up your palm as the warmth you need.
Options:
You could knit all these rows for a loosey goosey glove.
OR, knit a few rows and then do a k2, p2 rib for the remaining rows for a snugger fit over the knuckles and fingers.
I tend to be cold all the time so I knit mine all the way up to the first knuckles of my fingers and they are a little on the tight side that way making it hard to wear them when I type, but they’re fine for being out and about or driving.
Cast off quite loosely (unless you like your hands to have that claustrophobic feeling.
Thumb:
Pick up those 17 stitches you put on the holder. Pick up and knit a couple extra stitches in the side of your palm piece. Keep knitting (or do k1, p1 rib) for a bunch of rows until the thumb is as long as you want and then cast off loosely.
Notes on thumb:
1. Those 17 stitches between the markers, that’s just a guideline. You might need 15 or 19 or even 21 depending on the size of your yarn and needle. If you’re using Magic Loop it’s easy to slip those stitches down on the cable and try on your mitt to test the size of both the palm and the thumb.
2. When you do the second mitt, you want to put the thumb on the opposite side so just do your markers and make ones one stitch before the end of row 1,3,5 etc instead of at the beginning.
1 comment:
Hi Jennifer! Thank you so very much for the awesome package! I love everything in it! You're a great person have spoil them in a swap!
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